I'm still busy translating this blog. It might take quite some time, so please be patient! Thank you! :)
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I'm back!
6th of July I went sightseeing in Otaru. I visited Kihinkan, an old house dating from the time of the samurai ;) After that I visited Otaru Museum where you could see things about the history of the town, the Ainu (the original people) and the nature in Otaru. In the afternoon I walked around and bought some souvenirs. In the evening I went to eat sushi in a sushiya, with another guest. It was a super evening, with conversations in Japanese and French, the occasional word in English and even Dutch (danku en smakelijk). The guest was nice enough to pay part of the dinner. We came home very late, but it was well worth it! 7th of July (85.2km) After Masa-san took some pictures of me I left, without pictures of me with Masa-san (obviously I forgot...).I had a long, long climb of at least 2 hours, might even be 3 hours... . It was extremely hard and exhausting and when I finally arrived at the top I discovered I only had one energy-bar to eat as lunch. There wasn't a store in sight... . After that it obviously was really hard, but I was able to do a lot of kilometers. Once I reached Niseko I started looking for a camping spot and ended up at a small park with a golf terrain. The inside of my tent was really wet, so I had to dry it off first. I wasn't able to sit outside, because of a lot of blood-sucking animals (not musquitos, but other weird animals). 8th of July (96.4km) I woke up at 8u40 because it was raining. At 9 o'clock there was an entire group golfing, in the rain! By the time I was ready to leave the rain had almost stopped. I had some (normal) climbs and downs and cycled a lot in the clouds. Sometimes I couldn't see more than 50 meters ahead of me, but luckily I had to go down at that point. I had to watch out, but very soon I was able to see a lot more again. I wanted to stop at Yakumo, but there were no campingspots. The sweet lady I asked was too worried to sent me to the parc and another parc was no option because I wasn't allowed to set up my tent (after a conversation with the boss on the phone). I continued cycling and stopped at a fishermens harbor, where I could set up my tent and was even allowed to use the toilet! Finally able to cook my delicious rice! 9th of July (67.1km) At 7h11 it was already 30°C inside my tent, so I quickly opened my tent and left. The warmth was killing me, but a soft icecream did wonders! I arrived in Hakodate, but the only internetshop is closed. I could use the internet in a hotel across from where I sleep, but it was a 100yen for 10minutes! I had some good sashimi with rice and walked around a bit after dark. Hakodate by night isn't bad, but I liked Otaru better. I discovered I lost my towel somewhere along the way, while it was drying at the back of my bicycle. My washcloth is drying there everyday and I never lost that... 10th of July Sighseeing in Hakodate: Goryoukaku fort, where the last resistance of the Bonin War ended and the place where Hijikata Toshizoh died. It's an amazing parc, but the war was constantly in my mind. I walked around in the city some more and in the evening I took the bus to Hakodateyama (Hakodate mountain). SO MANY people!!! The cityview is apparently the 3th most beautiful in the world. Everyone was pushing to be at the best spot at the rails, but I just crawled underneath everyone and stood at the front. The rails bended, so I didn't bother anyone and had a lot of space. I took a lot of pictures and deleted more than half again. After that I ate a very expensive pizza (€ 8,00 while it was 19cm and 4 mm thick). The place where I ate it was filled with German stuff, including German songs and waiters dressed in Tiroleroutfits (including their hair). I left as soon as I ate my pizza and went to sleep. This morning I took the ferry to Aomori, where I found internet. I won't cover much distance today, but that's okay. While I was on the ferry I saw images of the destroyed area around Sendai and it looked like all of the rubbish was cleaned up (except the small towns I expect). They were busy building new houses, but everything is still very lonely-looking. I'll be blad when I passed it... Byebye! Kelly ps: no pictures, because I don't have a usb-port! Sorry! DID YOU KNOW THAT:
- there are frogs in a fishermans harbor? - they make a lot of noise, all night long? - the buses in Japan switched the entrance and exit? - this means you have to enter in the middle and exit at the front? - a lot of roadworkers wear their helmets all the time, even in the car? - busdrivers wear white gloves and a hat? - there often is a lady on the bus who gives a lot of explanation? - even though you don't understand her, you do know what to do? - I once again forgot a lot of did-you-know's? - the owners of small shops guide their customers outside to make a few bows on the pavement? - the bows they make are so deep that the upperpart of their body is completely horizontal? - you always get a welcome in the store, by ALL the members of the staff? - this means you can hear a tiny voice coming from somewhere in the store, without even seeing anyone.? - when the cashier says thank you, you'll hear that tiny voice again, echoing thank you? - they can do this so loudly and happily that you're often happy to get out? Did you know that:
- when Japanese people help you they remain by your side until they are sure you're okay? (the people who brought me to the bicycle shop stayed with me until I paid my bill and in Atsuta the person where I (wrongly) asked my question to stayed until I found a place to stay, even though he referred me to someone else) - Japanese motorrides (and those with a car) are unable to camp subtly (they have bright orange or bright blue tents)? - Japanese people like to laugh with a (so they think) language-associated mistake you made? They tell this to another Japanese person and then laugh together while saying that I can't understand them anyway... - a Japanese trying to imitate a bear is very funny? - you can't laugh with him though, since he's trying to warn you for bears? - sushi with wasabi mayonaise isn't yummy? (If only I read the wrapping paper...) - you often don't see any cars and then all of a sudden you see 5 in a row? - they weren't stopped by a red light, cause there wasn't one around for miles? - the 'boss' of Seico Mart gave me 3 sets of napkins? - I do wonder if he did it as a good luck gesture (he did say "be careful") or because I'm a gaijin and would spill my food? - all cyclists and some of the motorist raise their hands to each other? - they even do this after they passed you? - they also look in their mirror to see if you saw it? - some even dare to raise a fist? - raising a fist means "do your best"? - cars and busses pass you by completely driving on the other side of the road? - some busses and trucks even do this when you're not even cycling on their track? - it's very easy to take a picture of yourself from across the street when there are no cars driving on the road? - Murphy's law is applied at the same time and there is a car passing right when you want to cross for your picture? - foxes resemble dingo's, but walk a lot funnier? - there are an awful lot of crows here? - crows do not walk, but jump around? - there were 2 crows having a heated conversation with each other from the moment I entered the cemetery and only stopped when I went away? - it's so safe here that people leave their cars unattented and running while they go shopping? (yes, even for more then 10 minutes) - this means I also forget to lock my bike (or almost)? - you can get 3 questions if you say what the end destination is of your trip? - these questions are: where do you sleep, what about food and are you alone? - I think about conversations while riding my bike and I (subconsciously) start bowing and nodding? - elderly Japanese ladies all have short hair (not longer then shoulderlength)? - young ladies on the other hand have longer hair? - Ha-Ha-Fuu is my new best friend? - Ha-Ha-Fuu is my breathing while cycling uphill? - Ha-Ha-Fuu-Haa-Fuu is on his way to become my newest best friend? - I'm often in my tent by 19h and have troubles staying awake at that time? - food is very cheap here? (a big bowl of ramen between Y600 and Y1000) - I'm having troubles remember what day it is? - I only try to remember it because the ATM is closed on Sunday? - 3th degree burns can burst open without any reason? - almost all my food is bought at Seico Mart? - you can find Seico Mart in every tiny village? - a yukata has no description of how to wear it sewed into it, so it's very hard to wear one correctly? - I always have to think about my grandmother's good advice (don't go with strangers, always be careful around other people and don't go with them or say anything unless you're really sure you can trust them) when I get into a car (quite quickly)? - I've never felt unsafe? - I have the feeling that I encounter more opposing cars then cars heading in the same direction as I am? - Japanese lights are tricky, because they often, but not always, are located on the other side of the crossroads so you have to stop way before the light? - I totally love tunnels, against all expectations? - this is probably due to the fact that they (so far) are all going downhill? - in a long tunnel of 2km and more it gets so cold that you can see your own breath? - if there are roadworks and there's only one lane available this is controlled by people and not by light? - those people let me wait until the last car got through before I was allowed to follow? - the man on the other side of the lane kept all the other cars waiting until I completely passed them? - I felt oh so powerfull at that time? - there's a female doll that tells you to wath out/slow because of road works, but sometimes it's done by people? - they tell you this by opening a scroll of some kind when you pass them with the message written upon it? - these people stand underneath a big umbrella when it's raining? - some people at road works have only one function: signalling to the cars to slow down? - this is sometimes done by 4 people, who all give me the sign that I can continue? - other people have to assure that the trucks can safely and quickly enter and exit the roads? - these people also work at gas stations? - at self service gas stations there's also someone to help you when in trouble? - eating with knife and fork makes a lot of noise which is quite irritating? - I don't have a clue how to eat sausage, bacon and a sunny side up omelette (cold) with only hashi (chopsticks) and a fork? - I resolved the matter by taking my pocket knife (I was eating in my room)? - I find 2 onigiri, salad, tomato, broccoli with mayonaise, bacon, sausage and omelette a strange combination? - onigiri tastes quite salty? - I have a lot of "Did you know" on my bicycle, but I always forget them at night? - trucks can talk here? (no, not beep-beep) - their conversation skills are limited to "watch out, slow down" or something? - they only talk while riding backwards or taking a turn? - I got my very first musquito bite inside the ryokan? - I had no problem with insects so far, except for that one? - Japanese people are very surprised to hear that you had to walk 10km with your bike because of a flat tire? - their main surprise it that nobody stopped to help you? - the Japanese word for a flat tire is "panku"? - you can stop anywhere, anywhere and you'll find ants? - Hokkaido would be a paradise for my mom: ants, big spiders and motorists? - I saw a huge spider twice already, but always in the evening when I didn't have my camera nearby? - the spiders where gone in the morning? - I still forgot soms "Did you know..."? - they also have brands here like Whiskas, Hills, Sheba, Kawasaki, Suzuki, Honda, Pepsi, Pizza Hut, ... ? - I bought my first souvenir and something very small for my mom? - I suddenly realise that I was going to find some postcards to send already? - this will now have to wait a bit more? - I'm going to find food now, but am not sure if I'd go for sushi (rules to follow, lots of rules) and pizza? Hi everyone!
I arrived safely at Otaru. 29th of June My bicycle has arrived and it isn't broken! They did put some extra cardboard around it to protect it, since the plastic wasn't so secured anymore. The owner of the YH (Youth Hostel) was so kind to treat me to some delicious sushi! In Belgium they don't put wasabi inside the sushi, but they do so in Japan. He did say to the cook to put less wasabi in mine, so they were exactly as I liked them! I just came back from the bike-shop for pedals and a bit of help with the things I couldn't put back together. It took about 2 houres, since he decided that he needed to check EVERYTHING on my bicycle. It cost me around €100, but now he's completely ready to go! As am I! 30th of June Lift-off! After a nice breakfast (with extra rice from obasan, I need the strength she said!) and a bento she gave me secretly (couldn't tell the owner!) we took some pictures together and then: I left! The wind was blowing in the right direction and most of the way was downhill, so I had a very pleasant ride! At Cape Soya (the most northern point of Japan and my official starting point) I took some pictures. Everything was really nice, and the good weather was a blessing! Unfortunately... After 42 km I had a nail in my tire! It was around noon, so I fixed the tire under a blazing sun, but it didn't help. A new innertube didn't help either, so I had to walk for 10 km. I stopped at a bike shop, which was apparently only for motorcyclists. My new innertube had a fit near the valve, which means it can't be fixed. Thankfully there was a nice couple that brought me to the expensive bicycleshop (where I went yesterday). Of course it ended up being my fault, since I can't fix a tire. He fixed it and gave me a spare innertube for the nice price of €30... . After that I was on my way again until I saw a small harbor and (after asking permission) I put up my tent and went to bed! 1st of July They start working really early at a harbor, so I woke up around 4h and the boats left for the ocean at around 4h30. I started my day with lots of first-aid: I was heavily burned on my arms and head. Yesterday I forgot to put sunscreen on before I started, so I cycled for 3u in the sun! Not today! The sun was ashamed and hid itself behind mist, which made it a bit chilly, but for cycling it was great! The last 30km were not so great, my bottom started to hurt (solved later by lowering the saddle), my burns hurted, my ankles had blisters because of the shoes, ... . Right before I entered Teshio I saw a small park with a funny looking little house (probably Ainu). I bought some food at the Seico Mart and cycled to the campingground. I stopped early today, after putting up the tent and eating it was only 16h. 2th of July I left around 9h and the sun was still hiding, this time behind clouds. After a while it showed itself, but I had my sunscreen on, I wore protection clothing underneath my helmet and over my forehead AND I was wearing sunglasses. Around noon I stopped to put some new sunscreen on when I met another cyclist (60years, cycling from Sapporo to Enbetsu). We exchanged energy-bars and he was extremely happy to get one from Belgium. In Shosanbetsu I ate some ramen, which is not ordered as we would in Belgium. You have to go to a machine, press the button with the food you desire, put your money in the machine and in exchange you get a ticket. That ticket you have to give to someone at a counter and the food is brought to your table. I forgot to take a picture, of course! I wasn't able to finish it all! Japanese people start eating the second the food arrives, but I had to wait a couple of minutes, since I didn't want to burn my tongue! I put up my tent in Tomamae between some abandoned houses, so I couldn't ask for permission. My stomach was still filled with ramen, so I didn't eat dinner and went straight to bed! 3th of July I left early today and cycled at a good speed with nice weather. I had my first tunnels today (the longest was 2.5km). It's cold inside, especially when you're cycling through at 36km an hour (downhill). I stopped in Hamamase, where you could put up your tent for free, next to the beacht. At around 4h30 I went for a walk along the coastline and afterwards I ate some chips. Then I hurried to the Seico Mart (yes, open on Sunday!), because ramen salade is without salade. There is a strong wind and obviously I put up my tent at the worst spot for wind! I'll have to learn to watch the wind before I put up my tent! 4th of July I woke up a couple of times because of the wind and I left pretty late, because of the rain. The rain didn't stop and it even got worse. To top things off I had to go into the mountains. Going uphill was okay, but going downhill wasn't. Raindrops feel like hail when you're making some speed. I waited at the end of a tunnel for a bit (in the middle is way too cold to wait with wet clothing (yes, my clothing is apparently NOT rainproof)) until the rain lessened a bit. Around noon I was in Atsuta, after cycling only 28km. I waited at a bus stop and ate my breakfast. later on I walked into a building (looked like a hospital or something) where they confirmed that it would be raining all day (NOT, it stopped a few hours later). I asked for a campingground, a minshuku (Japanese B&B) or something cheap like that. I ended up with a ryokan and the people I asked for a place arranged everything. They asked me if it was okay that the rooms didn't have keys (ryokan almoest never has keys) and that dinner and breakfast were included. The total price would be around 7000 yen, which I found a bit high. Apparently they noticed this, because all of a sudden the price was 3000 yen. Wauw, that's great! My room was 8 tatami (a tatami is a woven mat) large and even had a small tv (with a huge antenna). When the owner said the bathtub was ready I enjoyed a nice, hot bath! Dinner was onigiri with bacon, egg and sausage, yummie! The weighing scale said I weighted 2 kilo's less then a week ago in Wakkanai! :) 5th of July Left quite late, since I was still waiting for my breakfast, which appeared to not be included. However, the owner asked if I still ahd time and if bread would be okay. Yes, it would! I got cornflakes, breas with bacon and cheese, cold carbonara-spghetti... Could it be better?! (yes, rice would be better, but anyway...). When I wanted to pay I discovered that I had to pay 1000 yen less, with the words "do your best!". So far this has been my cheapest place to stay, except for camping. Good weather today, but a bit warm in the fields (yes, including ricefields!) I arrived in Otaru around 3h and they don't have riders houses there (Lonely Planet said they had). I ended up in a hostel with superfriendly people, who can speak English! It's nice to be able to have a slightly more expanded conversation! Tomorrow I'll do some sight seeing and the day after I leave for Hakodate. If the weather is fine (no rain) I should be there 3 days later! Some changes in my route: - I'll take a ferry to Aomori instead of Oma See you next time! Kelly DID YOU KNOW THAT:
- the schoolbell sounds exactly the same as it sounds in anime? - Japanese women (or at least those that are in the same rooms as I am) make a lot of noise, without saying anything (sighing, talking to themselves, ... )? - This translates into snoring at night? - they drive on the left here? - they serve dinner in at least 5 different bowls? - I always forget to take a picture of the food? - I'm now bored to death and hoping to get a phonecall concerning my bike real fast, so I can go outside? - it is dark around 20h and it starts to get light around 4h? - I just heard 'Poker Face' on television? - some of the programs on television resemble 'Erinn' a lot, if you only listen to the voices? (I can't understand what they are saying)? - The sleeparea is pretty old and there used to be (or still is) a problem with moisture, of which you can still clearly see the consequenses? - the tv has an antenne and is thereby old-fashioned? - this differs greatly from the super modern toilet they have, which they call a Western toilet? - a Japanese toilet resembles a French toilet a lot? Luckily for me they have Western toilets (the Japanese way) almost everywhere! Okay, some things I've noticed!
DID YOU KNOW THAT: - Japanese people are in no way subtle when seeing foreigners (wearing a helmet at the airport and putting it on when you leave the airplane so you have your hands available for your luggage ended up in lots of giggles and strange looks)? - My flight only had a couple of non-Japanese people, including 2 other Belgians? - I got an invitiation from a professor from Hiroshima while waiting at the gate? - I lost my box with businesscards on the plane, including the card from that professor? - I had to show my neighbor that I could read katakana by reading the cities on the map? He wrote his last name in kanji because I said I could read simple kanji. - He was very surprised when I was actually able to read both kanji? His name was 山田 (Yamada). - He also invited me to contact him when I was in his town and needed a place to sleep or eat? We didn't exchange anything though... . - I had to give away my Marcassou sausage, they are not allowed in Japan? - The customs officer wasn't happy with the fact that I could not provide hotel information, nor a telephone number, nor knew anyone in Japan? - She let me enter anyway? - Japan is now the proud owner of an ugly picture of me and the fingerprints of both my index fingers? - all cars in Japan are small and resemble mini-buses? - Those cars all have sliding doors which open and close automatically if you pull the lever? - I can withdrawel money with my normal card as quickly and efficiënt as in Belgium? - the machine tends to give a lot of warnings (please make sure you have everything with you, pleaase do not forget anything) and everywhere else you hear them too? - a supermarket has lots of food in small packages, they all look really good so I'll probably buy whay too much? - a supermarket sells everything? (food, clothing, parfum, books (MANGA), bento, hashi; curtains, ...) - manga only costs 400 Yen (3.46€)? - they have supercute bento-boxes, hashi and everything for toddlers? - they sells icky animals (rhino-beetles) as pets? - if you ask something and they don't know the answer they will go and ask other people, so that you will get an answer? - they are very sorry if they can't help you, even after asking several persons? - they bend a lot and give a lot of welcoming words in the shop, while there is childrens music playing? - they have brands lilke Kellogs, Coca-Cola and Kit-Kat? So, this will keep you all busy for a while! See you next time! Hi everyone,
On the 25th of June it was finally time for me to leave. In Brussels I discovered that I was traveling first class, which was a good start! I slept most of the trip though, since I was awake all night packing my bike and stuff. Everything went very smoothly once I arrived in Paris, after an hour or so I was sitting at the gate. However... . My flight got delayed for 3 hours and eventually cancelled. Some people that needed to do the technical check-ups were on a strike. I spend the night at the Radisson Blue hotel, with diner and breakfast, paid by AirFrance. I arrived at the hotel around 21h and went straight to bed, after diner of course. I was allowed to leave my bicycle at the airport, so I didn't have to take it with me to the hotel. The next day it was a lot busier at the airport, but this time I knew what to do and I didn't have my bicycle with me. Apparently they had to find another plane, which meant that I had another delay. Because of that I missed my connextion in Osaka Kansai Airport (I arrived 10 minutes after my other flight departed). I had to take another flight to Sapporo to transfer there in a very small, old plane to Wakkanai. In the meantime it was the 27th of June, in Japan. I eventually arrived at Wakkanai with a delay of one day and 4 to 5 houres. While in Osaka I discovered that my bicycle was still in France, so I had to walk to the town of Wakkanai, with my luggage. I couldn't take a taxi, because I had no money and I couldn't go to the bank, cause it was already closed. After walking for about one hour (and walking part of that hour in the wrong direction) a car stopped and the friendly couple brought me to the youthhostel. I love Japan! At the hostel I explained that I didn't have any Yen at the moment and this wasn't a problem. The man already knew my name, 'cause they had already called him concerning my bicycle. I gave his address and phone number to the autorities, since I have neither in Japan. There was no food available at the hostel that evening, so I ate my emergency food. I couldn't eat it all though... . I wrote a bit in my diary and went to bed at around 21h30. Today (28th of June) I woke up early (7h30) and went showering. Yes, the Japanese way. Thankfully I was the only one! Showering in Japan is a special thing. You first enter a small area. In this area you put all your clothes in a basket. You put your soap and stuff in a small plastic box and enter the next room naked. This room is divided into 2: a place to shower and a place with the big bathtub (to share with everyone). First you shower. This means you have to sit on a small plastic bench and wash thorougly. If you're entirely clean and without soap on your body you're allowed to enter the bathtub. I didn't go into the bathtub though, it was too early and the water wasn't that warm. On top of that I'm still a bit stressed in these bathrooms and I'm always afraid someone else will enter. Guess I'll have to get used to that... . After the shower I had a Japanese breakfast. Yummie! I went to the post and the supermarket with a Chinese girl that spoke excellent French. At the post I succeeded to get money with my card (thankfully!). Everything is so cheap here! I bought some ramen (kind of noodles) to try out for camping and half a liter of Cola for 273 Yen (2.38 €). After that we went back to the hostel to eat and then we were on our way again. I still needed some gas for camping and I found them in another supermarket. I didn't find new pedals, which I forgot in Belgium. We walked around town for about 3 houres, which isn't too bad, considering I don't like walking! (I actually kind of enjoyed it) Tomorrow they will let me know around what time my bicycle will arrive at the airport. Perhaps I'll stay here another night, but possibly I'll already leave. I won't do much kilometers, but I have to cycle up north first anyway. We'll let the weather decide! I'll eat here tonight and I can't wait to see what's on my plate! I'm gonna stop typing now, you've had enough to read! Photo's will follow later on! Cheers, Kelly |